Used 1968 Buick Riviera Used Automatic Gasoline Coupe

Seller Description

Someone
is going to get a great car at a no reserve price. I have a very nice
1968 true muscle car for sale. Classic. A real head turner . Reason
for selling? I believe in maintaining and restoring these great
pieces of automobile history for future generation. I need to sell a
few to a good home as at age 70 and with 10 classic cars and two
aircraft I spend most of my time taking care of them instead of
riding them. I
just do not have the time to maintain all of them for future
generations. Like my Model T Fords, these 60 era muscle cars will be
around now for another 100 years because they are attention getting
works of metal and engineering art. I
grew up and graduated High School in1968. This was the era of true
power and body style in American Autos . The over all appearance is
very eye catching.. Someone put a great deal of money into the body
and paint. Chrome is very good with minor imperfections. The car
starts and drives great. I put a new battery in it and a new
Rochester 4 barrel correct for the 430 engine. Replaced thermal wires
from solenoid to starter (
good prevention keeps you from getting stranded some day) .
I will list all the defects so you are not surprised. Mainly
electrical interior switches on the dash. Dash and switches look good
just can not bend over to check all the fuses and wiring . Has tinted
windshield power windows, etc. Buick loaded up the top of the line
Rivera. Interior is in very nice shape ( this to me restoring cars is
the most difficult and expensive) A real eye catcher. Someone
installed some large speakers on the rear deck behind the rear seat.
Custom mag wheels? Trunk is full of parts. I have not gone through
them but it does have an extra carb new brake shoes, chrome, kick
panels,
boxes of new parts . I have found investing in quality cars to
be both enjoyable and they hold their value It is between a grade 3
and grade 2 car insured by Haggertys I am starting
the no reserve auction at a price way below the
price of
a running rust bucket grade 4 This car would be great to
install what
I was planning on doing with it, to
add flame thrower exhaust system ( shoots flames out exhaust 4-8
feet) Has original owners manual
Car
is currently at Fox Autoin Mishawaka Indiana fJune
25th
for a
final inspection and tune up for the new owner.( great old
time family quality repair
shop)
being inspected and re tuned to specs I encourage any buyer from out
of town to hire a reliable car club person or mechanic to look it
over. I do ALWAYS give this guarantee. Once you buy it AND BEFORE it
leaves my possession have it inspected again. Any defects requiring
repair I missed can either get you a full refund or a negotiated
cost of repair refund. It requires a flat bed transport as it
is too wide for any regular transport with side rails. I
usually use USHIP to get transport bids but
be sure to tell them it is wide
From
Haggerty Classic Car Insurance web site ( I insure all my classics
with Haggerty Ensure it for a value of over $17,000 It is easily a
grade 3 car plus (minus the listed defects). This way if it is
stolen or wrecked you get the full value. Never insure with a
standard policy as they pay little or nothing for these classic cars
if damaged)
Current
Values ( from Haggertys current sales history report ) Grade desriptions at end of listing
$49,300 grade 1
$32,400
excellent grade 2
$17,700
good grade 3
$10,100fairgrade
4
Known
defects
Defects
Front and rear windshields appear replacements in excelelnt condition but appear tinted which I believe is non period correct
Interior
good headliner good seats. On drivers seat top cushion repair has
been made It appears they used the old hot vinyl mold method. It
blends in nicely but is obvious.

This is on the outside vertical seat
corner about 4 inches by 6 inches
Lets
just say that none of the interior electrical switches may work
Dome lights work. I suspect there is no power wire to the
interior fuse box too old to mess with this If it is a
simple power to fuse box great for you All mechanical switches appear
very nice interior Turn signals for example, no power.
Speedometer etc do work fine
Power
windows work but drivers when closed stops 1/8 to Вј inch from
closing and closing motor shudders. So there is a small open gap when
closed
Head
lights are designed to retract. Someone wired one in the up position
I have not trouble shot them.
Radio
turns on but power antenna does not go up so no signal appears to be
original period radio I suspect since there are the large non period
speakers on the back deck period radio was disconnected
someone
has installed period 8 track
carpets
( tan appear period original) in great shape I will pay to have them
cleaned or refund you the $ 75 cost.
Pull
straps on front doors appear to have loosened and someone moved one
of two fasteners to solid material instead of removing the door panel
properly for proper repair
air
conditioner system intact No solenoid click to compressor
clutch again suspect interior electrical control
request
high quality detailed pictures of paint damage spots They
should show up on expanded ebay view scuff mark passenger
front just behind bumper
paint
bubble right top rain gutter rear about 2 inches
a
few cuts and scuff marks so very nice paint what we call a ten
footer. Looks very very nice from ten feet away but has storage
scuffs
feel
free to make an offer to end the auction early My advice after
buying and restoring well over 300 cars is buy the best quality car
you can for the best price. Enjoy the car. Unless you have lots of
time and money to waste avoid buying a grade 5 or lower car. THey end
up being rolling stock You push it from place to place instead of
diving it Interiors are most expensive to restoration cost. Rusted
out? Find another car. If an automatic transmission check if your
local shop can repair it. Parts? Look to see if you can buy water
pump, alternator, distributor cheap from local parts stores. I spent
over a year trying to find a period specific mechanical fuel pump for
a 50 era deluxe caddie!
History
of the 1968 Buick Riviera GS (
From Haggerty Insurance )
The
Buick Riviera received a face lift in 1968 with new front sheet
metal and a hefty grille that was almost (but not quite) as clunky
as the Oldsmobile Toronado. Base price was $4,615, making the ’68
Riviera Buick’smost expensive model.
The
Riviera’s engine remained the 430 cid V-8, now good for 360 bhp,
though additional weight slowed it slightly to 0-60 mph in 8.1
seconds and a 15.9 second quarter-mile. Top speed was 125-132 mph
depending on the magazine that was testing the car. Tom McCahill
ofMechanix Illustratedcalled the Rivera “just
about the best of any 1968 car we have tested.”
Standard
Riviera equipment included the 3-speed Super Turbine transmission,
dual exhaust, power steering, power brakes, two-speed electric
wipers with washers, safety buzzers and warning lights, tilt and
telescopic steering column, upper and lower dash safety pads,
console gear selector, walnut paneling on the dash and full
carpeting.
1968
Buick Rivera options includedair conditioning, power
windows,power front disc brakes, four- and six-way power
seats, tinted glass, cruise control, cornering lights, wire wheel
covers, five-spoke chrome wheels and an automatic trunk release.
My
evaluation of car conservative grade 3 plus could be brought up to
grade 2
NO.
1: EXCELLENT
Restored
to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area or
perfect original with components operating or appearing as new; a
95-plus point show car that isn’t driven.
NO.
2: FINE
Well-restored
or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original;
also, an extremely well-maintained original showing very minimal
wear.
NO.
3: VERY GOOD
Completely
operable original or “older restoration” showing wear; also, a
good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and
out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable
components or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to
complete and/or valuable NOS parts.
NO.
4: GOOD
A
drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional;
also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration.
All components may need restoration to be “excellent,” but the
car is mostly useable “as is.”
NO.
5: RESTORABLE
Needs
complete restoration of body, chassis and interior; may or may not be
running, but isn’t weathered, wrecked or stripped to the point of
being useful only for parts.
NO.
6: PARTS CAR
May
or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to
the point of being useful primarily for parts.
car is listed locally on facebook and craigslist so car may sell ending listing Feel free to make a buy it now offer if serious. What I do then is change the listing to a buy it now price with you on the telephone so you can click buy it now before someone else does. I do pay Ebay more fees but this is fair
Note speedometer and odometer work Put down 74,000 miles. From my experience, looking ofr over 100,000 miles wear I believe this is very accurate
.